Villa-Vogue: Haute Couture Spring 2022 Rundown


Courtesy of L’Officiel Austria

Valentino’s Spring 2022 collection is called “Anatomy of Couture.”

Kaelin Trombly

The term haute couture is terrifying. It is a terrifyingly frightening term full of complexity and intimidation that seems to only be fit for fashion’s brightest minds. What most do not know is that haute couture does not need to be treated as an enigma but rather an art form for the general public’s enjoyment. Whether one is a well respected house designer, a fashion nerd like myself or just simply curious, haute couture is to be appreciated and understood by everyone. So without further ado, let’s break down Paris’ Spring 2022 Haute Couture Fashion week.

This year’s haute couture week was full of escapism, fantasy and unconditional beauty amongst every Paris runway. Craftsmanship seemed to be an apparent theme this year as high end fashion houses like Dior, Valentino and everything in between created show stopping pieces that did not disappoint. Needless to say, when my jaw dropped, it hit the floor. 

Fendi: Palais Brongniart was adorned with all things inspired by Roman temporality this past week as models walked the catwalk in embroidered capes and beaded gowns. Artistic director Kim Jones impressed the A-list guests from the light show of the fashion houses’ headquarters upon arrival to the embellishment statements on every piece. Every pattern created was adorned with the most intricate of details. 

Valentino: Among the wide array of fashion houses presenting at this year’s haute couture show, Valentino may be my favorite. Valentino titled its spring 2022 collection “Anatomy of Couture” with its main purpose being to highlight the diversity that comes with high fashion. Pierpaolo Piccioli did a staggering job at recasting the social convention of what haute couture is, leveraging through a collection featuring a variety of body shapes and sizes, as well as age in the models casted. It is time we bring diversity back on the haute couture runways and Valentino did just that. Not to mention, every model was dressed in beautiful, bright hued gowns and suits that did not disappoint. Whether the ensembles were monotone or a variation of colors, each piece was full of joy and modernity. 

Franck Sorbier: Rather than sticking with the Frank Sorbier tradition of having live, performance-based haute couture shows, the French haute couture brand stuck to a digital collection this year. Every ensemble presented in the editorial videos and lookbooks was made of silk organza with sculpted flowers, ruffles and feathered trims. 

Jean Paul Gaultier: I have never seen corsetry made the way Jean Paul Gaultier does it. For those who have ever been lucky enough to try on one of his corsets, all the power to you. The 2022 spring collection incorporated corset mastery into beautiful, show stopping gowns adorned with intricate fabric patterns all the way through. When we thought it was impossible to turn Jean Paul Gaultier into street fashion, the model Sara Grace Wallenstedt proved us terribly wrong through the usage of a tan Gaultier corset top paired with a long denim pleated skirt. If one is a fan of the fashion style of the hit show “Euphoria,” Jean Paul Gaultier takes it to the next level. 

Viktor & Rolf: This year, the label created 25 looks for its spring 2022 collection, all inspired by Dracula himself. The show’s statement was “fear can be overpowering.” From the powdered faces to the black lipstick and padded houlders, the Viktor & Rolf show was certainly eerie. Among the emphasis on fear, there was a beauty driven through juxtaposition, as every ensemble brought a sweet sense of calm through the usage of soft lace and grosgrain fabrics.

Chanel: The 2022 spring Chanel show was, simply put, very Coco. After the death of Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel has introduced the fashion world to its newest replacement, Virginie Viard. Despite the stress of having big shoes to fill, Viard impressed all those in attendance. From her entrance on horseback to a lifetime supply of tweed and the incorporation of fashion from many past decades, the Chanel vision carries on. 

Christian Dior: The Spring 2022 Dior show took place at the Musée Rodin this year, which was set against tapestries created by artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh, a collective in India that Dior frequently works with. Every piece presented took 380 artisans and 280,000 hours to embroider. Talk about dedication. While many fashion houses are now relying on NFT and Metaverse production, Dior’s creative director Maria Chiuri is a strong supporter of hand craft in order to “honor the bond between human relationships and handmade objects.” That being said, the collection was completed with the embroidery of organza and tulle fabrics, a collection that was ultimately tactile, simple and wonderfully human. 

Among the variety of styles presented within the 2022 spring haute couture collections, each one added to the outside-of-the-box, convoluted yet simple concept that is high fashion. Until next time.